Take the ferry from Argostoli to experience an even slower pace of life.
Kefalonia’s second largest town is Lixouri on the Paliki peninsula, which forms the southwestern side of Kefalonia. The town’s sea front offers a good choice of tavernas, whilst the square hosts a number of cafes. A regular car ferry service connects Argostoli with Lixouri everyday, half hourly in high season and hourly in early and late season. Tickets are purchased on board. The town has around 4000 inhabitants and was totally reconstructed after the earthquake of 1953. A small stream divides the town into two parts. On the sea front the visitor can see the statue of Andreas Laskaratos, the satirical poet born in Lixouri, turning his back to Argostoli and the rest of Kefalonia as an original Lixouriot. He says in one of his poems “when God created the world, Lixouri first and then all the rest of the earth”.
Beaches to the south of Lixouri are Lepada, Megas Lakkos, Petani and the red sand beach at Xi (pronounced ksee) whose clay is said to have rejuvenating qualities when applied to the skin. Indeed the clay soil characterises the peninsula, which was known as the granary of the island. It also provides good vine-growing conditions and there is a winery at Manzavinata (open daily 10am – 2pm and 6pm – 8pm).
Although there are signposts for Kounopetra, which means, “rocking stone”, it can be a little difficult to locate as, since the 1953 earthquake, it no longer moves!. From this part of the coast, the 34 metres tall lighthouse, built by the British Resident Charles Napier on Vardiani Island, is visible.
The coast road north passes the Kipourean Monastery, which stands at the top of a 90-metre cliff, and another red sand beach at Platia Ammos (accessible by over 300 steps).
Petani Beach
Similar to Myrtos is the lovely shingle beach at Petani. It is reached via a steep and winding road. There are two tavernas on the beach and sunbeds are available. There is also a Café bar above the beach which offers some of the best views of the sunset on the island. The villages around Petani lie amongst rolling hills pine trees and terraces, and this area is one the prettiest and most unspoilt on the island.
Leaving the Paliki peninsula by road, you will pass the old British prison and the coastal marshlands of Livadi which are home to numerous wetland birds and plants.
Vatsa
The bay of Vatsa was used since Roman times. An mosaic with a trident and dolphins from a Roman villa is displayed at the Archeological Museum of Kefalonia. The Venetians used the bay as a shipyard. A small river reaches the sea at this point on the coast (one of the two on Kefalonia) and can be crossed by a chain-anchored boat. The beach has a taverna immediately on the shore adjacent to the river. The Taverna has a thatched roof and the floor is beach sand. Most of the food in the taverna is grown in neighbouring fields
Gero Gombos Lighthouse
Situated on the south west of Lixouri the original lighthouse was built in 1907. It was destroyed by German troops in the Second World War and rebuilt in 1947. The area offers stunning views and is a great location for the sunsets.
